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 Appeared in NYT.
Getting pedicures and participating in other
traditionally female rituals is a matter of pride
for the style-conscious straight urban men known
as metrosexuals.
By WARREN ST. JOHN
Y his own admission, 30-year-old Karru Martinson is not what you'd
call a manly man. He uses a $40 face cream, wears Bruno Magli shoes
and custom-tailored shirts. His hair is always just so, thanks to
three brands of shampoo and the precise application of three hair
grooming products: Textureline Smoothing Serum, got2b styling glue
and Suave Rave hairspray.
Mr. Martinson likes wine bars and enjoys shopping with his gal pals,
who have come to trust his eye for color, his knack for seeing when
a bag clashes with an outfit, and his understanding of why some
women have 47 pairs of black shoes. ("Because they can!" he said.)
He said his guy friends have long thought his consumer and grooming
habits a little . . . different. But Mr. Martinson, who lives in
Manhattan and works in finance, said he's not that different.
"From a personal perspective there was never any doubt what my
sexual orientation was," he said. "I'm straight as an arrow."
So it was with a mixture of relief and mild embarrassment that Mr.
Martinson was recently asked by a friend in marketing to be part of
a focus group of "metrosexuals" — straight urban men willing, even
eager, to embrace their feminine sides.
Convinced that these open-minded young men hold the secrets of
tomorrow's consumer trends, the advertising giant Euro RSCG, with
233 offices worldwide, wanted to better understand their buying
habits. So in a private room at the Manhattan restaurant Eleven
Madison Park recently, Mr. Martinson answered the marketers'
questions and schmoozed with 11 like-minded straight guys who were
into Diesel jeans, interior design, yoga and Mini Coopers, and who
would never think of ordering a vodka tonic without specifying Grey
Goose or Ketel One.
Before the focus group met, Mr. Martinson said he was suspicious
that such a thing as a metrosexual existed. Afterward, he said, "I'm
fully aware that I have those characteristics."
America may be on the verge of a metrosexual moment. On July 15,
Bravo will present a makeover show, "Queer Eye for the Straight
Guy," in which a team of five gay men "transform a style-deficient
and culture-deprived straight man from drab to fab," according to
the network. Condé Nast is developing a shopping magazine for men,
modeled after Lucky, its successful women's magazine, which is
largely a text-free catalog of clothes and shoes.
There is no end to the curious new vanity products for young men,
from a Maxim-magazine-branded hair coloring system to Axe,
Unilever's all-over body deodorant for guys. And men are going in
for self-improvement strategies traditionally associated with women.
For example, the number of plastic surgery procedures on men in the
United States has increased threefold since 1997, to 807,000,
according to the American Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery.
"Their heightened sense of aesthetics is very, very pronounced,"
Marian Salzman, chief strategy officer at Euro RSCG, who organized
the gathering at Eleven Madison Park, said of metrosexuals. "They're
the style makers. It doesn't mean your average Joe American is going
to copy everything they do," she added. "But unless you study these
guys you don't know where Joe American is heading."
Paradoxically, the term metrosexual, which is now being embraced by
marketers, was coined in the mid-90's to mock everything marketers
stand for. The gay writer Mark Simpson used the word to satirize
what he saw as consumerism's toll on traditional masculinity. Men
didn't go to shopping malls, buy glossy magazines or load up on
grooming products, Mr. Simpson argued, so consumer culture promoted
the idea of a sensitive guy — who went to malls, bought magazines
and spent freely to improve his personal appearance.
Within a few years, the term was picked up by British advertisers
and newspapers. In 2001, Britain's Channel Four brought out a show
about sensitive guys called "Metrosexuality." And in recent years
the European media found a metrosexual icon in David Beckham, the
English soccer star, who paints his fingernails, braids his hair and
poses for gay magazines, all while maintaining a manly profile on
the pitch. Along with terms like "PoMosexual," `just gay enough" and
"flaming heterosexuals," the word metrosexual is now gaining
currency among American marketers who are fumbling for a term to
describe this new type of feminized man.
Next page >

June 22, 2003.
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